This page is to show you the amount of work that i have put into my audio system to become one of the winners and to show you how to become a winner too !

Welcome to the car audio site !

If you have any specific questions feel free to email me

I will respond to your questions as soon as i am able to do so.

My system starts with the Sony CDX-C910 CD/Tuner this is a top of the line head deck (which retails for NZ$2000) and it uses 4 Volt pre outs and has a high signal to noise ratio of 105 db, it even has a digital output to run fibre optics, which makes this unit is ideal for competing.

I decided to use the fibre optics to further improve the s/n ratio in the system, the next link in the chain is the Sony XDP-U50D this is a surround sound processor with time alignment, it connects to the head deck via a unilink cable, this allows the whole system to be controlled from the head deck, subs, time alignment, etc. the surround function is turned off so I am only using the time alignment.

The signal is split off to the subs, rear fill and front components at this point.

The signal for the fronts passes through a Phoenix Gold PLD 1 line driver to boost it up a bit more, this prevents any possible line noise from being heard.

The signal then passes to the Earthquake EQ3200, a 32 band EQ and finally arrives at the amp, an Audio Control System 90 Model 50, this is a four channel amp rated at 50 watts RMS per channel, I have bridged it so that i am running two channels at 150 watts RMS per channel !

The front components are some Boston Pro 6.4 's, I chose these because of the accurate sound that they are able to preduce when installed into a car, and the tweeters are not so big that they stand out like a dogs balls.

The rear fill signal passes onto a Rockford Fosgate Punch 100 IX DSM, this is a two channel amp rated at 50 watts RMS per channel,using the internal Xover to cut out the bass at 300 hz, the rear fill is supplied by some Orion XTR 5 S components, I am also running a center channel bridged onto this amp so that it is in mono, the center channel comprises of one Orion Cobolt 5 component and two Cobolt tweeters, the mid is mounted at the bottom of the center console and the tweetes are mounted in the center air vents on the dash, this improves the imaging tightness and accuracy.

The signal for the subs goes to two annihilator HA 400's one for each sub, these are two channel amps rated at 130 watts RMS per channel, I am running these bridged to produce 400 watts RMS per amp !

This power passes onto the subs which are two Orion NT 12 SVC, each are running in a 1 cubic foot sealed enclosure that is rear firing into the hatch, believe it or not this set up is able to produce an SPL of 136.2 dB !

I have of coarse added various accessories for the car and audio system, such as :

Sound proofing in the floor, boot, boot lid, side panels, wheel arches, roof, and I even double skinned the doors (one layer on the outer skin, one on the inner), and tar sprayed the underbody of the car to improve general deadening and reduce the chances of rust developing (after all, if you put in this much work, you would want look after it!), extra driving lights (for a total high beam power of 780 watts !), cooling fans, a built in SPL meter (in the roof), dual batteries (one for the car the other for the stereo),a battery isolator, a volt meter for the stereos battery, an in-dash temperature gauge for the Sub amps, lighting effects, fuse condition LED's (they show if the fuses are OK), a socket in the boot into which a AC voltmeter / oscilloscope can be plugged in (to check the levels of each the sub amps outputs), vented the parcel tray, added a new light in the boot which is switchable (off, blue, white), various bits of detailing such as having the wordsNX Coupe added to the headrests, painting the writing on the engine and mudflaps, a colour co-ordinated window sticker, that Driving Sound had made SPECIALLY for my car !

This is by no means a complete list, this is just meant to give you some idea of what has been done.