secret of the almighty loud mouth supertalk kit////

ramblingman · Post by **ramblingman** » Wednesday 11th Jul 2007, 14:58

hello all,i just desicted a loud mouth modulator kit......heres what it consist of.....2-470 uf 25 vdc capacitors,1-24 ohm resistor.attached to 3-six inch colored wires.red wire,white wire,black wire.wrapped all up neatly in a little red rubbery piece,what looks like a piece of abc gum.....what a joke....you pay 29.95,for about 2.15 cents worth of parts.so if anyone whats to know how to make your own.and save about 27.00,here goes.......twist the two negative legs of the 470 uf capacitors together with one end of the 24 ohm resistor and solder....then solder the red wire to one of the positive legs of the capacitors,solder the white wire to the other positive leg of the other capacitor,and solder the black wire to the other end of the 24 ohm resistor....and wollla you have a loud mouth suuuuuper talk kit.insulate it all with a big piece of heat shrink,or tape it up good.and youre ready to install.....what a deal huh.......

James Unit 198

Ramblingman. What you need to remember is people that repair and convert rigs for a living have a fixed price for there labour hear in the U.K it is about ?25 to 30 pounds per hour which is about $60. When you setup in repairing RF kit you need a lot of test gear that cost a lot money. I know there are lot of screwdriver expert out there who just copy some one who knows what there are doing its been like that for years. I see on this forum there are some that just copy by reading some info of the Internet and posting it hear [The info must be true lol]. I only see a few people, which are original and know what there are talking at about on this forum.

James.

sonoma · Post by **sonoma** » Thursday 12th Jul 2007, 8:52

where did they hook the 3 wires up? I pulled a super mod kit out of a radio and it had 3 wires coming out of a piece of junk like you described .I tore it apart and had a 100 ohm resister and a 1n4001 diode in it.one wire to the diode one wire to the resister and the resister and diode were soldered together .these two wires hooked to the jumper holes on the cobra 29 ,25,etc for mod increase and the 3 rd red wire to 12 volts.what was funny was the 3rd wire to 12 volts did not hook to anything in the mod kit.it was just to make some one think they really had something.

ramblingman · Post by **ramblingman** » Thursday 12th Jul 2007, 10:49

hey there,yeah ive heard about this joke too,another scam to make money i guess.on a cobra 25,29.all you need is a 220uf capacitor,and a 100 ohm resistor,too make up a mod. kit,thats it.maybe 2 dollars worth of parts if that much.and they probably sold that one too that guy for about 30 bucks,plus 20 to install it.what a rip off huh.....hell is a hot place,oh burn baby burn.........

williebee253 · Post by **williebee253** » Thursday 12th Jul 2007, 12:58

just knowing how the kits are made is only the start, even if they come with wiring instructions these wiring instructions don't work on just any radio ! You have to have to know how trace the board schematics even when you don't have a copy of the schematics to work with. These so called loud mouth and super talk , or what ever place you happen to buy them from ; i can't even start to count the burnt out radio circuit board's i've seen where someone thought they knew the right way to install them ! And the super mod kit someone else was talking about with the red wire that went to nothing did have it's place on the board , the season it wasn't hooked up because whoever installed or started to install couldn't fine the right or type chock for finishing the installation. I ran across one a guy who thought he knew how to install one in a RCI 2970 DX amatur radio ; but instaed he burnt out the one that came with the kit then tryed to find one that would work from a junk pile of old radios'! I had been tring to get the radio from him for over year , but he kept putting me off saying he had promised it to another buyer I I had offered him $300.00 for it and after a year's runaroung he call's me up and offer's it to me for $150.00 plus he said he would throw in as a bonus the super mod kit free ! Well i bought it then found out why he came down on the price when he gave me the kit and three circuit board's he said had the right choke for the kit , i bought it anyway knowing the chock's wouldn't work ; it took me a abut a week to find the diode's that put it back to stock ! After i fixed back to stock i sold it for $400.00 to the guy whothe seller had kept puttin me off in the first place ! It left a sour taste in the mouth of the guy i bought it from ! I build my own kit's for radio's and selli only to my friend's , there's no such thing as one size fit's all ! Icustom build my kit's for specific radio's ;and i've a forture in test equipment to get the right componant's for even the same radio ! I've never had anything but praise for my work ; my kit's give radio's sound like it has a power mike and variable power you can roll up or down the dead key to get the needle to swing like a modgulater , and i get people acuse me of running an amp when i'm not !.......................williebee253 [/i]

tim_spur · Post by **tim_spur** » Monday 16th Jul 2007, 4:47

shuttttttttttttt up and leave ramblin man alone i,ll bet him and rick are much smarter than you and they dont try to get rich doing it they help for free and they know what they,re talking about

kc8mob · Post by **kc8mob** » Friday 27th Jul 2007, 18:07

tim_spur wrote:shuttttttttttttt up and leave ramblin man alone i,ll bet him and rick are much smarter than you and they dont try to get rich doing it they help for free and they know what they,re talking about

Yea, most people are full of shit. "Modulator" LOL. Most of these "mod" guys couldn't even tell you how a modulation circuit works or what the hell modulation actually is.

I'll tell you one thing, it's not the swing your CB has when you talk.

Back in the day, when the universal swing kits came out, they use to use a TIP 120, a cap and pot. And you'd have variable power and swing.
But just doing that does nothing to increase your modulation, now in an export board that has not been properly open up, by lowering the carrier, you can lighten the load on the regulator that power the audio circuits.

For every 50 watts of RF power, you should have 50 watts of audio power.

But that's old school gear that weighs as much as a fridge.

dvdljns · Post by **dvdljns** » Tuesday 31st Jul 2007, 3:33

Mod kits? Is there anyone out there old enough to remember before mod kits. Never used one myself but I have not run across any cb I could not get to talk a little louder and I do not remember all the bleed over problems that I started seeing after the kits became popalar. If you need more than that try a linear but please watch for bleedover. Is there any oldtimers out there that can actually open a radio, hook it to something that shows the signal tuneup and adjust the raddio and get the most from the radio without it being heard on three chanels. I do not care what anyone says if your radio is being heard on more than one chanel it is not working right regardless how many watts it puts out.

hackindave · Post by **hackindave** » Wednesday 31st Oct 2007, 12:32

dvdljns wrote:Mod kits? Is there anyone out there old enough to remember before mod kits. Never used one myself but I have not run across any cb I could not get to talk a little louder and I do not remember all the bleed over problems that I started seeing after the kits became popalar. If you need more than that try a linear but please watch for bleedover. Is there any oldtimers out there that can actually open a radio, hook it to something that shows the signal tuneup and adjust the raddio and get the most from the radio without it being heard on three chanels. I do not care what anyone says if your radio is being heard on more than one chanel it is not working right regardless how many watts it puts out.

I'm an old schooler. My first radio came with tubes and you had to wait and let them warm or you were way off freq. Then came the "solid states" that had 14 million crystals in them. Mod kits?? Never heard of them back then. I been out for several years, but still have a Uniden Madison, 138 XLR a Stalker 202 and a Teledyne 23 channel SSB that weighs more than the battery in my truck. U gotta mount that to the floor as it will tear the dash out of vehicles today.
Used to, you read the schematics and changed out parts looking for more modulation, but never over 100% and you always scoped your signal to make sure it didn't splatter across the entire bandwith

dvdljns · Post by **dvdljns** » Thursday 1st Nov 2007, 17:21

Thats what I am talking about. I am getting back into radio's after a 13 year break and trying to find operators that are still interested in modding radio's the right way, not just the quick way. What a lot of cber's do not understand is if you hear the radio on more than one channel it is not something to brag about. It is something that needs fixed.

Tramdr · Post by **Tramdr** » Monday 10th Mar 2008, 16:02

I guess I'm old school, started CB ing at age 12, I'm 47 now. I am a service tech for a National company for my real job too. Always believed in low dead key and high swing. Here in Detroit, me and my friend Dr. Radio, of the famed Dr.Radio's CB shop on the white (good guy) list of CB shops, have been having discussions on Super Mod for 30 years. I was always into the tubers, he the transistors. At 22 I sold my Tram to buy a new Cobra 2000, which didn't sound as good as my Tram, plus on the Cobra, I was getting wash from chanel 9's emergency react base! I sold the Cobra and have been a tuber ever since. 25 years ago, before "dial-a watt" most everyone was trying to get more power by peaking and clipping. This is ridiculous. Peaking is just tuning your radio for the highest possible deadkey, which increases clipping and distortion by about 1000% and clipping removing or disabling the AM mod control circuit, which now allowed the audio circuit to clip both positive and negative peaks. We both agreed that the best way to tune a radio is lower the deadkey and turn up the mod to just before positive clipping (negative clipping would still be an issue) Next everyone wanted to be able to select or dial in there dead key level and with resistors in series of the B+ side of the audio transformer with a rotary switch for each resistance level, with a couple of smoothing filter caps, the original "Select-a-Watt" was born. 2nd generation used standerd power supply diodes which drop 1.5 volts each leg of the select a watt scheme. Theres even a contribution from Frank / aka Dr. Radio in the old secret cb as others where adding some sort of .1 bypass cap across the diodes to equalize the droppig voltage or something. Frank wrote in that the diodes are already equalized at there max 1.5 dropping voltage and don't need any bypass cap etc. The 3rd generation was the 'dial-a-watt' which used voltage regulators instead of dropping diodes. Even back then there where all sorts of "superMod" boxes and gizmos. Frank had dissected and showed me a couple, .50 cents worth of parts, caps and resistors, and lots of wires with a few hooked up to nothing in the box to fool both radio users and techs into thinking the magic boxes with 5/6 wires was actually complicated and working some sort of magic for the $20-30 bucks people where paying. There are ways of adding "negative peak clippers" by using a few diodes to stop negative clipping and bleedover, google it. The ideal waveform would be 99% negative and 135%+ without clipping. Its called assymetrical modulation, and AM radio stations and hams have and still are doing it since the early 60's. Also old tube DSB-RC (double sideband reduced carrier) radio's, Regency Imperial, Tram Corsir, plus others, did the same thing from the factory. The ARF 2001 cuts the modulation carrier in half and doubles the sidbands (where the modulation is). It looks normal on a scope, terrible on a wattmeter as wattmeters look at the carrier going up and down, not the sidebands. Many people 'dis' this radio when they see the wattmeter standing still or going backwards, but man, the A U D I O. You really need a spectrum anaylzer to see it though.

148 · Post by **148** » Tuesday 11th Mar 2008, 15:09

DR.RADIO NOW THERE IS A JOKE PUT 3 SWING KITS IN MY RADIO NEVER AGAIN

Irate Pirate · Post by **Irate Pirate** » Monday 17th Nov 2008, 12:35

TramDr, thanks for putting this into it's proper perspective.
Reality is ironic sometimes.

Dodgem250 · Post by **Dodgem250** » Friday 28th Nov 2008, 16:26

This is news from 20 years ago.

ramblingman wrote:hello all,i just desicted a loud mouth modulator kit......heres what it consist of.....2-470 uf 25 vdc capacitors,1-24 ohm resistor.attached to 3-six inch colored wires.red wire,white wire,black wire.wrapped all up neatly in a little red rubbery piece,what looks like a piece of abc gum.....what a joke....you pay 29.95,for about 2.15 cents worth of parts.so if anyone whats to know how to make your own.and save about 27.00,here goes.......twist the two negative legs of the 470 uf capacitors together with one end of the 24 ohm resistor and solder....then solder the red wire to one of the positive legs of the capacitors,solder the white wire to the other positive leg of the other capacitor,and solder the black wire to the other end of the 24 ohm resistor....and wollla you have a loud mouth suuuuuper talk kit.insulate it all with a big piece of heat shrink,or tape it up good.and youre ready to install.....what a deal huh.......

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